Back in October, I decided that I could no longer live with these limitations and that I had to figure out how to use, really use, flash to control the light in my photos. To that end, I started reading everything I could find and watching every video I could lay my hands on. I discovered Joe McNally's blog and video courses (arguably the most amazing lighting artist around and a damn fine photographer, too), David Hobby's blog (aka the Strobist), training from Scott Kelby, Neil van Neikerk's blog (a wizard with shaping a single, on-camera flash so that it looks like you didn't use a flash), Russ MacDonald's blog (anything and everything that should have been in the Nikon Speedlight manuals and is not) and many other resources as well.
I learned concepts for shaping light, diffusing light, adding more lights, setting flashes to provide different amounts of light (you can do that? -- who knew!), the joys of Nikon's Creative Lighting System (CLS) -- an advanced wireless system for controlling their lights (very effectively, too; see McNally above) -- and on and on. I discovered many reasons why my previous efforts had been destined to fail from the outset. I learned, really learned, how to operate my Speedlights and that all those "weird" adjustments not only are not weird, but are entirely necessary if one is going to make good photos.
I had never realized that the truly good pictures of people that you see in print and on the web look NOTHING like the reality of the situation in which they are made. Just outside the view of the lens in those photos, there are softboxes, umbrellas, reflectors, diffusers, strip lights and lord only knows what else. It may be pitch black dark when the image looks like daylight or it may be broad daylight and look like the middle of the night. And so, I began the process of completely remaking the way I think about light when shooting people, even outdoors. I've only made my first baby steps down the path but I've had a couple of successes that have made me think that I might, just might, have the beginnings of a clue how to do this.
I knew that in order to do this I was going to need more equipment so after much study, I decided the first steps needed to be with Speedlights, both for size and cost. The softbox and other light shaping tools I got to start with all had to be models that would work with a Speedlight rather than requiring a studio strobe of some sort. Then, it was time to experiment. Experiments require victims. My family have been thoroughly victimized. Luckily, they aren't complaining (much) and we're starting to get some really cool shots.
The first success was the family Christmas portrait. Ok, I didn't actually shoot it until AFTER Christmas but it's still the family Christmas portrait. I already think I would light it differently now but using what I knew at the time, I set my key light to camera right, an SB-900 shooting through a Lastolite Tri-Grip diffuser. The second light started as my SB-600 shooting through a Lastolite 40" umbrella with the bottom half flagged (blocked with opaque material to stop the light) set to camera left. I triggered the camera remotely and shot with the camera tethered to my laptop so that we could all see the results immediately. I had the lights balanced just so and we were ready, so we all went to change to "real" picture clothes. And the wheels fell off.
Now I knew that our picture clothes were darker than what we had been wearing during the set up and I expected to have to make some minor tweaks to the flash values as a result. What I didn't expect was for the SB-600 to go nuts and starting firing at full power, complaining the whole way that it was unable to deliver the requested flash power, and totally blowing out the image. I didn't figure out until later (with the help of Russ MacDonald, in fact) that the problem was all due to the way TTL metering is done in the camera. If I had been working behind the camera, rather than trying to be in the picture, I could easily have set the camera to spot meter just on a face, locked the value in, recomposed and shot the picture and had no trouble. In retrospect, doing that kind of self-portrait is probably done with less frustration by using manual flash settings and foregoing TTL metering altogether. In the end, I ended up switching out the SB-600 for an SB-900 (more powerful) because I misunderstood what it was telling me. And through dumb luck (more accurately known as "my oldest son moved around just enough to get his face into the metering part of the frame") we got the shot. And, in my opinion, it's the best picture of the 4 of us we've ever had.
As always, click on a photo to see a larger version.
65mm, ISO 200, f/8.0, 1/6 © Richard Critz |
82mm, ISO 400, f/5, 1/80 © Richard Critz |
Next up, I tried a technique for "simulated sunshine". This was shot indoors on a snowy day. If you look closely enough, you can see that there is some ambient light from outdoors coming through the window behind the Christmas tree. The light, however, is a bare SB-900 set on a stand, about 12 feet off to camera right, slightly behind my model and about 8 feet above the floor. I used no diffuser, no gel, no light modifier of any kind, just a bare flash and a willing subject (aka Mr. GQ). The flash was zoomed (unfortunately I don't remember to what setting) to give the light more punch. And it really is, I think, a creditable imitation of the hard light of the sun.
60mm, ISO 400, f/8, 1/80 © Richard Critz |
46mm, ISO 400, f/4.5, 1/100 © Richard Critz |
Feeling inspired now. Q, are those exposure settings correct on the tags cause I don't see how the background went full black in the last shot if taken from the same place/angle/time of day using roughly same settings but different light. Learn me how you did that.
ReplyDeleteThe two previous photos have excellent fill light happening. Did you have a reflector over there or just a white wall?
Very nice...
Yep, the exposure settings are, in fact, correct. The Christmas tree was still in the way taking down some of the light in the room. With the tree gone the other day, I found that in broad sunlight, I could get completely black with ISO 200, f/8 and 1/200". It's amazing how little it takes to completely eliminate the ambient. What you see as the difference in ambient is really the difference in flash. The last one is all in a softbox so that light is VERY controlled and directed. The others are with a bare SB-900 across the room and it's scattering all over the place on the white walls, white ceiling, ornaments on the tree, light colored carpet, etc. That's why it seems so different.
ReplyDeleteAs for the fill, you are correct that I forgot to mention the reflector just out of the frame to camera left. I *believe* those were done with a white tri-grip diffuser on a stand. It may have been a silver reflector instead but I don't think I had it out that day. I also think it would have made the fill too hot since the key light was so hot.
Thanks for reading, and for keeping me honest.
A good night's sleep and I remember for sure what I did for fill on that one now: It was a tri-grip diffuser on a stand with an extra white scrim just thrown over it to make it more reflective. As I said earlier, I think the silver reflector would have been too hot.
ReplyDelete